Stonecrop Gardens Studio Gravel · Succulents · No irrigation

Planted once · Watered twice · Then never

Gravel Gardens That Survive the Summer Without a Hose

A properly built gravel garden is watered in for its first season and then left alone permanently, through drought, hosepipe bans and the increasingly hot summers that are killing conventional borders. We design and plant them: deep free-draining sub-base, a thick mineral mulch, and species that evolved for dry stony ground — agaves, sedums, euphorbias, lavender, cistus, phlomis, ornamental grasses and bulbs that flower before the heat arrives. The result flowers for eight months, needs one cut a year and gets better as it ages.

Broad-leaved agave growing in a dry stony bed
Ribbed cactus growing among stones

About us

Fifteen Years of Not Watering Anything

The studio was founded by a nurserywoman and a landscape gardener who had spent a decade replacing the same drought-killed borders every August. Their first experiment was a car park verge planted into forty centimetres of crushed rock with no topsoil at all, watered twice in its first month and then abandoned. Fifteen years later it has never been irrigated, has lost three plants in total and flowers from March to November. Everything we build now follows that structure, adapted to the soil we find.

The counter-intuitive part is that these gardens want poor ground. Rich soil, compost and manure produce soft, fast growth that collapses in the first drought and rots in a wet winter. We strip topsoil where it is heavy, break up compaction to a depth that lets roots go down rather than sideways, and plant into a mineral layer of crushed rock, grit or recycled aggregate. Plants go in small, in autumn or early spring, and are watered only to settle the roots.

We grow about a third of what we plant ourselves, on an open nursery bed with no protection, so the stock arriving in a client's garden has already survived wind, frost and drought rather than being lifted straight from a polytunnel. The rest comes from three specialist growers we have used for years. Every scheme is delivered with a planting plan, a photographic record and a two-page maintenance note that tells the owner what to do and, more usefully, what to stop doing.

Advantages

Why These Gardens Work

Six reasons a gravel garden outlives the border it replaced, at a fraction of the effort.

Mixed rock garden planting with conifers and perennials

No Irrigation, Ever

After establishment these gardens receive no water at all, including through the driest summers on record. That is not endurance, it is design: deep free-draining substrate encourages roots to travel down rather than spread near the surface, and the mineral mulch keeps the soil below it cool and stops evaporation. Owners with water restrictions, second homes standing empty in August or simply no wish to spend evenings with a hose find that the garden looks better in September than a conventional border that has been watered twice a week all season.

Poor Ground Is an Advantage

Clients often apologise for their thin, stony, builder's-rubble soil, which is precisely the condition these plants want. We remove or dilute rich topsoil rather than importing more, break compacted layers so water can escape downwards, and plant into a mineral layer. Nothing is fed, ever. The plants stay compact, flower harder, resist wind and disease, and live for decades instead of collapsing into a soft mass that needs staking. A difficult site is usually cheaper to plant than a good one.

One Cut a Year

Maintenance is a single visit in late winter: everything cut back, seedheads removed or left where they are wanted, self-sown seedlings edited, gravel raked level. There is no feeding, no mulching with compost, no staking, no deadheading and no autumn tidy. Most of our clients spend two hours a year on a garden that previously took two hours a week, and the plants respond better to the neglect than to attention. We provide the maintenance note in writing and will do the annual cut ourselves if wanted.

Flowering From March to November

Dry gardens have a reputation for looking like a car park with a few spiky things in it, which is a planting failure rather than a characteristic. Our schemes layer early bulbs, spring perennials, a long summer core of salvias, phlomis, achilleas and eryngiums, late-season grasses and sedums that carry colour into November, and evergreen structure from agaves, yuccas and shrubby herbs that hold the garden together in winter. Something is always in flower, and the seedheads through frost are half the point.

Plants Grown Hard

A third of our stock is grown on our own open beds without protection, so it arrives already adapted to wind, frost and drought rather than soft from a heated tunnel. Everything is planted small — nine-centimetre pots rather than five-litre — because small plants establish faster in dry ground, cost a fraction as much and overtake larger stock within two seasons. Clients who want instant effect are told honestly that they will get a worse garden more expensively.

Better for What Lives There

A dry garden in full flower is the loudest thing in the street on a July afternoon. Long-flowering, nectar-rich Mediterranean species support bees, hoverflies and butterflies for eight months, the open gravel gives ground-nesting solitary bees somewhere to dig, seedheads feed birds through winter, and the absence of feeding and spraying means the whole system is left alone. We record what turns up in the first three seasons at several of our schemes and share the lists with clients who are interested.

Rows of flowering lavender in summer sun

Services

What We Do

Design, construction, planting, plant supply, conversions of existing beds and annual maintenance.

Design and Planting Plans

A site visit, soil assessment and drainage test, followed by a scaled plan showing levels, substrate depths, mulch specification and every plant by name and quantity, with a planting sequence and a realistic budget. Plans are drawn for how the garden will look in year three rather than on the day it is finished. Clients can build from the plan themselves, hand it to their own contractor or ask us to carry it out; the drawing is theirs either way.

Ground Works and Construction

Removal or dilution of unsuitable topsoil, breaking of compacted layers, drainage where a site holds water in winter, laying of the mineral sub-base and the final mulch layer, plus paths, steps, seating areas and stone edging. We work with crushed local rock, recycled aggregate and reclaimed stone wherever possible rather than importing decorative gravel across a continent, and we set out levels so that water runs into the beds instead of off them.

Planting and Establishment

Planting in autumn or early spring with small, hardened stock, set out on site rather than to a rigid grid so that the arrangement responds to the ground. Every scheme is watered in twice and then left. We return at the end of the first season to replace anything lost at our cost, and again in the second year to check establishment. A photographic record and a written maintenance note are handed over at completion.

Converting an Existing Border

Most of our work replaces a border that has failed. We assess what is worth keeping — mature shrubs, bulbs, anything already thriving on neglect — strip the rest, correct the soil and rebuild the bed around the survivors. Conversions are usually done in stages across two seasons so that the garden is never entirely bare, and the cost is lower than a new build because the structure and edges are already in place.

Plant Supply and Collections

Our nursery bed supplies drought-adapted perennials, succulents, sub-shrubs, grasses and bulbs to private clients, other designers and municipalities, sold in small sizes because that is what establishes best. Ready-made collections cover a sunny bank, a shaded dry strip under a wall, a coastal wind-exposed bed and a container group, each with a planting diagram. Orders can be collected or delivered, and we will substitute honestly rather than sending something that will not suit the site.

Annual Cut and Advice

A single late-winter visit covering the full cut-back, seedling editing, gravel raking and replacement of anything lost, for clients who would rather not do it themselves. We also run a consultation service for owners of existing dry gardens that are not working, which usually diagnoses too much feeding, too little drainage or a mulch that is far too thin. Advice visits are charged as a flat fee and frequently save the cost of a replanting.

Contacts

Site Visits and Orders

Send photographs of the space, the aspect and a description of the soil, and we will say whether a gravel garden suits the site, what it would involve and roughly what it would cost before arranging a visit.

Plant orders, collections, conversions and annual maintenance are arranged through the same office.

Studio45 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France
Phone+33 4 42 27 65 18
Studio HoursMonday–Friday 09:00–18:00; nursery collections Saturday mornings